Monday, April 15, 2013

Easter Break Continued: Tour-guiding in Vienna

After a beautiful, wonderful, family-filled, and refreshingly warm week in Israel, the 'rents and I flew back to freezing, gray, yet still undeniably charming Vienna. We only had about three days before the start of our next trip, but we managed to pack a lot of stuff into those few days! Because the weather was so dreary, we visited a lot of museums, starting with the Jewish Museum, which I had visited before. There was a new exhibit that I had not yet seen called "Alles Meschuuge?" which was all about Jewish humor! I found it to be really fun and interesting, so I'm glad I had an excuse to go back to the museum and see it. By the time we got out of the museum, the sun had come out (although it only lasted a few hours) so we seized the opportunity to walk around the city a bit. We did a sort of greatest hits tour throughout the Innenstadt (the city center), walking around and inside the famous Ringstrasse. Here are some pictures from that day:
On the steps of Parliament, with the Athena column
 and part of the Hofburg palace in the background 
In front of the only Roman Ruins in Vienna, which are right
outside the main gate of the Hofburg
A trip to Vienna would not be complete
 without a visit to Cafe Central! (the first of
many Kafee und Kuchen experiences of the trip)
Cutest Elephant statue I've ever seen, in front of the
Natural History Museum
We ended that day with the Freyung Easter Market. Although it's the only Easter Market in the Innenstadt, it is a great one!
The next day we visited the Albertina, arguably the most famous art museum in Vienna. There was an exhibit on the dutch artists Breugel, Rembrandt, Bosch, and Rubens, one on Max Ernst (crazy but cool surrealist painter), and one from the collection of the Batliner family which held everything from Monet to Picasso to Chagall to Degas to modern people I've never heard of but still had cool art. I enjoyed that exhibit a lot. There was also a special photography exhibit that featured a photographer from Newport Beach, and had a lot of pictures from various locations in Orange County, including Irvine! Even though we couldn't recognize anything because it was minimalist photography from the 1970s (and Irvine has changed SO much since then), it was still very exciting!!!
Despite the cold we headed next to the Naschmarkt, the permanent outdoor market just outside the city center, and then braved the weather again at the Schönbrunn Easter Market. This market is the most famous in Vienna and I wanted to make sure we got a chance to see it before it ended, and I am so glad we did! Even though it was col, it was still filled with people of all ages, as well as tons of food and drinks and beautiful crafts. If only the weather hadn't been so horrible!!
This lady in the stilts chicken costume
was the coolest
Everybody knows the song about dreaming of a white Christmas, but no one wrote about dreaming of a white Easter, and there's good reason. IT SHOULD NOT SNOW ON EASTER. Yet, when we woke up Easter morning, there was a good 4 inches of snow on the ground. Easter is supposed to represent Spring, and snow does not equal Spring. But the very un-easter-like weather did not stop us from celebrating the holiday in full force. No siree. In fact, on Easter Sunday we visited not one, not two, but THREE different churches. Vienna is famed for its beautiful church music, and Easter Sunday is the perfect time to experience it. We started at the Minoritenkirche, where the Italian community worships (there's even a replica of the Last Supper on one of the walls). There we heard a choir perform Mozart's Coronation Mass, which was beautiful. We then headed to my church, the Vienna Community Church, a non-denominational English-speaking congregation that meets in the VERY yellow Freie Evangelische Kirche not far from church #1. We then killed time in one of my favorite cafe/restauraunts, trying to stay warm, before church #3 of the day: St. Stephen's Cathedral (Stephansdom). There we heard Mozart Vespers, also a beautiful piece, and very exciting for me because I finally got the chance to go inside the nave, where normally you have to pay to go! So hooray! Here are pictures from all of that: 

Number 1: Minoriten Kirche
Number 2: Protestant Church
Number 3: Stephansdom
Mom & Abba attempting to talk to Roni on skype on the iPhone...
After an eventful three days we packed up and went to bed early so we could be up for a pre-dawn departure the next morning. Next stop: Prague!!!

Monday, April 8, 2013

פסח עם משפחת ידלינ: פסח במדבר

Two years ago I had the delightful pleasure of spending Passover in Israel with my entire Israeli family plus a few American study abroad friends. This year, when my parents decided to tack a trip to Israel onto their trip to visit me, and when that trip perfectly coincided with the beginning of Passover, I was lucky enough to be able to go celebrate with the family once again! My parents and I left cold, cloudy, snowy Vienna and arrived in bright, warm, sunny, beautiful Israel a few days before Passover and went straight to the Kibbutz where my dad grew up, not far from the city of Beer Sheva. Kibbutz Hatzerim holds lots of fond memories for me, mostly from several childhood summers spent there with my older sisters, so it's always fun to go back and feel the lively vibe and warm, welcoming, very special atmosphere of the place. Michal (who was also able to meet us there in Israel!) and I spent several afternoons wandering the paths in the Kibbutz, visiting our old favorite sites, talking about how things have changed, but mostly noting how many many things haven't changed a bit. I don't know why I feel such nostalgia towards the Kibbutz, considering I was less than 2 years old when we lived there, but I will always love going back!!
the communal dining hall 
The children's house where I "lived" when we were living on the Kibbutz in 1991
The Netafim factory 
I love the fun artsy things on the Kibbutz!
The playground has gotten a lot bigger and fancier since I played there last
I love the refet despite its smell--this is my calf
friend named Charlie Brown
On our second day in Israel, my uncle Amir took my grandpa, parents, sister, and cousin on a little trip through the Negev, the desert in Southern Israel. While most people think of the desert as completely devoid of plant life, every year the Negev gets completely filled with beautiful wildflowers during the springtime. Unfortunately we were there a little too late to get the full effect of the flowers, but we did get to see a few, in addition to gorgeous views of farmland and barley fields. We drove to the northern tip of the Gaza strip (actually so close that we could see Aza, the biggest city in Gaza, and if we were any closer we would have basically been in the strip itself), and then around to where Kibbutz Be'eri, one of the first Kibbutzim, and the place my grandfather himself settled back in the 1940s. He gave us a lovely history lesson (which we had all already heard several times, but it's nice to hear again :) ). I love that Israel is such a young country that it's history is still so alive and recent, both in the form of actual people (i.e. my grandfather who is quite possibly the most remarkable man I've ever met) and in places and ideas. I never tire of hearing stories from the early days of the settlement of the country.
Some callaniot, the flower native to the Negev
That city there is in the Gaza strip--we were quite close 
Mom, Michal, me, and Saba Aharon 
The next day the rents, Michal and I went back to my old stomping ground: Jersualem! I hadn't been back since I studied abroad there in 2011, but I was proud to find out that I was still able to get around the confusing maze of the Old City without getting lost (well, maybe once)!! We visited the huge market, with the irresistible mix of incredible food, kitchy tourist crap, beautiful pottery, scarves, wood-carved-stuff, random household needs, raw meat, dried fruit, spices, baked goods, electronics, tacky tshirts, and literally everything else you could possibly want. We also went to the Austrian Hospice within the Old City walls (a super fancy hotel with arguably one of the best views of the city from its roof), which definitely holds more significance now than last time I visited! There were portraits of the Hapsburgs in the hallways and an exhibit of pictures of rare Vienna museums. The cafe was advertising Julius Meinl coffee and lots of traditional Austrian food. It made me very happy :) We rounded out our day with visits to the Church of the Holy Sepluchre and Via Dolarosa (it was Palm Sunday so it was PACKED), the Cotel (Western Wall), and finally a visit with my Great Aunt who is wonderful and also lives in Jerusalem. The day was awesome. Jerusalem is amazing.
Tower of David by the Jaffa Gate with the old city wall
in front--a view I know well
Dome of the Rock, Western Wall, and Cotel plaza
Austrian Hospice 
From the roof of the Austrian Hospice.
I love how the Austrian flag is placed so that
anyone who wants a picture of the Dome of
the Rock must picture the flag too :)
And now begins the REAL highlight of the experience in Israel. As previously mentioned, a large part of the decision to go was to celebrate Pesach. At some point last year, someone in the family had the idea that it would be fun for the whole family to go down into the desert and have our Seder (the opening Passover meal) in a tent in the desert. My uncle Amir (my dad's younger brother) and aunt Karen (my dad's older brother's wife) made this joke a reality, so this year we found ourselves caravanning down to a desert resort (Lev HaMidbar, literally "heart of the desert") to sleep and eat and celebrate in tents. But that's not all. During a seder, before the festive meal, it is customary to retell the story of the Jewish Exodus from Egypt, using a book called the Hagadah. However, the Yadlin family does not just tell stories. The Yadlin family lives stories. During this portion of the seder, the entire family, aged 1.5 to 87, dressed up in costume with props and scripts, and literally wandered through the desert surrounding our camp to reenact the Jewish plight in Egypt, flight from Eypgt, and 40 years in the desert wilderness. Everyone had an assigned role: my grandpa was Aaron, my cousin was God, my uncle was Moses, my little 4-year old 2nd cousin was Miriam, and the rest of us were the very generic but incredibly important "Children of Israel." When we were told to cry, we cried, when we were told to sing, oh boy did we sing. We had recorders and tambourines and walking sticks, and portable wine cups so we could even drink the customary 4 cups of wine during the procession. At the part where God speaks to Moses from the burning bush, we found a bush, my cousin playing God stood behind the bush, and talked to the uncle playing Moses. During the "let my people go" song, "Moses" and "Aaron" waved their sticks and yelled at our "Pharaoh." At the part where Moses hits a rock and it becomes a spring, "Moses" hit a rock with a large stick and my aunt poured water onto it with a big "voila!" Literally no stone was left unturned in this incredibly faithful and hysterical retelling of the Passover story. We even had to literally climb a hill to get back to our camp (aka "the Promised Land"), where the rest of the ceremony and the all-important festive meal was waiting to for us. The evening was absolutely hilarious and perfect and without a doubt the most memorable Passover to date. We ate, we sang, we laughed, and there really is nothing more you could ever ask for in a holiday! Here are some pictures and a few videos of the event:
The tent where we ate and cooked and shielded ourselves
from the desert sun
Our homes for the 2 nights
uncles Amir and Amos with me and Michal
decked out in our Israelite garb
The whole gang!
Elohim talking to Moses from the bush
Talk about beautiful.
SO READY FOR THE PROMISED LAND!
The Yadlin Brothers getting ready to
enter the Promised land
Seder table
This is us crossing the red sea:
And this is us singing because we made it out of Egypt:
The day after the seder there was a huge sandstorm so we had to cancel our outdoor activities and instead did a bunch of fun group games and "team-building" kinds of activities with the whole family inside the sort of club that was near to our tent area. Spending time with so many aunts, uncles, and cousins was such a treat. I don't have a big family in America, so it's a great deal of fun when we can come over to Israel and be with this huge group of people who are all so fun and awesome! I only wish I were better at Hebrew! No matter how much I could unterstand (which was way more than I expected), every time I tried to say something, German came out of my mouth. Languages are hard.

On our way back to the Kibbutz we made a few stops in the desert. One to a little hill with a cool set of rock formations, another to an area with multi-colored sand that we used to make sand bottles out of when we were younger, and then to Maktesh Ramon, a crater-like geological formation with a brand new visitors center, which is the reason we went. A large portion of the visitors center's new exhibit is dedicated to Ilan Ramon, the first Israeli astronaut, and my dad's close friend and flight school classmate. In 2003, Ilan was on the Space Shuttle Columbia when it broke up reentering the atmosphere, killing all seven astronauts on board. Ilan had invited my dad to the launch, and he and Roni went, giving the whole experience an even closer connection to my family. Israel is understandably incredibly proud of Ilan (not just for being the first Isreali astronaut, but also for the many many huge things he did during his career as an Israeli fighter pilot), and this exhibit was beautifully done. His death was such a horrible tragedy and I was really emotional looking at all the pictures and watching the beautiful video they showed about Ilan and his life. The kind of fun part of the exhibit was 1) seeing my uncle interviewed in the video and 2) walking into the first room and seeing a picture of Ilan's class in flight school, and then spotting my own dad's face in the picture! It's not every day your father is in a museum!! The crater itself is stunning as well, so the addition of this wonderful exhibit right next to the crater was a well-done, smart move on the part of Israel.
signs in the desert. hilarious.
Hey pops, peeking out of that back row. I see ya.
Sands of the desert 
The week we spent in Israel was beyond amazing. I love that country so so so so much, more than I can ever express, and I am thrilled I was able to spend time with my family whom I love so much. I cannot wait to go back. My next trip can't come soon enough!